The Take
Paris is always a good idea. We have stayed at Cour des Vosges and Costes. We have eaten at Maxim's, Lapérouse, and Chez Georges. Go in April or October. That is the short version.
By Albert & Nouri Beesemer — independently visited. No sponsored placements. Ever.
Paris rewards a long weekend and a full week equally. Go in April or October — or New Year's Eve, if the occasion calls for it. Never August, unless you want the city to yourself, which is actually not the worst thing. The light in spring and autumn explains why painters kept coming back.
We stayed at Cour des Vosges — one of the most beautiful rooms in Paris, overlooking the Place des Vosges. And at Costes — Le Castiglione rooms only, the garden restaurant is the reason. Hôtel Balzac remains our standing recommendation: quietly exceptional, the secret bar, Pierre Gagnaire in the kitchen. Every hotel below has been personally vetted or friend-confirmed.
For dinner: Maxim's on the Rue Royale first — since 1893, the most beautiful dining room in Paris, the sole meunière non-negotiable. Lapérouse on the Quai des Grands Augustins is the oldest restaurant still operating, private upstairs salons bookable — we celebrated New Year's Eve here once, the bill was high and the memories will last a lifetime. Smoking optional. Chez Georges near the Bourse since 1964 — phone reservations only, the waiter brings what he thinks you should have, correct every time. Le Voltaire has the Seine terrace and a steak tartare that makes others feel apologetic.
Two mornings worth building around: Le Meurice for Cédric Grolet without the queue at his standalone shop. Noir in the 2nd for the best espresso in Paris.
For drinks: Les Ambassadeurs inside the Crillon — one of the most beautiful bar rooms in Europe. Harry's New York Bar since 1911, Bloody Mary invented here. One drink at each.
Three galleries: Bourse de Commerce for Tadao Ando's intervention inside a 19th-century exchange. Fondation Louis Vuitton for Gehry's building and one of the finest contemporary collections in Europe. Musée de l'Orangerie for Monet's Nymphéas — go in the morning, when the light comes in correctly.
