Go in autumn. The city finally exhales.

London

The TakeLondon rewards the person who stops trying to see everything. The tourists are queuing for the Tower. The person who knows is having a late breakfast at Maison François.

Download Wheely before you land. A nice black car at reasonable prices — the correct way to move around a city this size. The tube knows what it is and is useful, but it is not the way to arrive at The Twenty Two.

Stay at The Twenty Two or The London Edition. Twenty-two rooms in Mayfair that feel like someone's very well-appointed townhouse — the bar is one of the better rooms in the neighbourhood, the service remembers what you ordered last time. The Edition on Berners Street is the alternative: the lobby is the room everyone wants to be seen in and the rooms deliver on what the public spaces promise.

Your first night, do not leave the hotel. The Twenty Two restaurant is the right level of good for when you are tired and have not yet switched time zones. Order whatever the kitchen is running.

After that: Arlington in Mayfair. My top pick in London right now. The kind of room that makes you want to dress for dinner and mean it. Isabel Mayfair is next — one of the better-looking dining rooms in the city, and the food earns it. For lunch, Chiltern Firehouse has a garden that earns the journey — book it before anything else.

Shopping: Liberty first, even if you intend to buy nothing. Take the elevator to the top and walk every floor down — each one is worth it. Daunt Books in Marylebone if books are part of your trip; the building earns the visit before you look at a single spine. Fortnum & Mason for the tea department specifically — stock up, the tins travel well. Walk Burlington Arcade after — it is not what it once was, but Peal is still there, and E. Marinella at the far end has the best men's ties and swimwear in London. Stop into Assouline on the way out: one of the larger stores by the publisher, genuinely beautiful, worth a half hour even if you leave with nothing.

01

Where we'd stay

London's hotel market has had an extraordinary few years. These are the properties that earned the recommendation.

The Twentytwo, Mayfair
✦ VV Pick · Vetted

The Twentytwo

MAYFAIR · FROM £450/NIGHT

Twenty-two rooms. That is it. The smallness is entirely the point — it feels like staying in someone's very well-appointed townhouse rather than a hotel. The bar is one of the better rooms in Mayfair. The service remembers what you ordered last time. Book as far ahead as possible — the junior suites go first.

Also on our list

A Step Above · For the Right Occasion

02

Restaurants

The dining scene was already serious. It has gotten sharper.

The gap between the two Londons has never been wider or more worth navigating.
The Take · London
03

Shopping

The London addresses worth knowing — heritage tailors, considered menswear, the bookshops and food halls that have always been the point.

Connolly
MAYFAIR · Leather & Lifestyle

The heritage leather house that supplied Aston Martin and Rolls-Royce — now a beautifully curated lifestyle store in Mayfair. The kind of shop that takes craftsmanship seriously.

New & Lingwood
JERMYN STREET · Menswear

The Eton College outfitter that became one of Jermyn Street's finest — shirts, suits, dressing gowns, the kind of things that last decades.

Edward Green
JERMYN STREET · Shoes

The Northampton shoemaker with a Jermyn Street presence — considered by many to be the finest English shoe. Made on a last, built to last thirty years.

Gaziano & Girling
MAYFAIR · Bespoke Shoes

The most exciting bespoke shoemaker in London — Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling trained at the great houses before starting their own. The ready-to-wear line is exceptional.

Ken & Haste
CHELSEA · Bespoke Tailoring

A small Chelsea tailor doing bespoke and made-to-measure work with genuine craft behind it. Less well-known than the Savile Row houses, better for some customers because of it.

Liberty London
SOHO · Department Store

The Tudor building on Great Marlborough Street that has been selling beautiful things since 1875. The fabric department alone is worth the visit.

Berry Bros & Rudd
ST. JAMES'S · Wine

The oldest wine merchant in Britain, trading from the same St. James's Street address since 1698. The cellars below the shop are one of the great London spaces.

Pavilion Press
NOTTING HILL · Books

A Notting Hill bookshop with a genuine point of view — the kind of selection that tells you someone with taste made every decision. Allow time.

Daunt Books
MARYLEBONE HIGH STREET

The Marylebone flagship. An Edwardian bookshop with skylights and a long oak gallery — the building earns the visit before you look at a single spine. Organised by geography rather than genre.

Fortnum & Mason
PICCADILLY

Go for the tea department. Stock up — the tins travel well and the selection is genuinely exceptional. Walk the other floors on the way out.

Burlington Arcade
PICCADILLY · MAYFAIR

Not what it once was, but Peal is still there, and E. Marinella at the far end has the best men's ties and swimwear in London. Worth the walk through regardless.

Assouline
NEW BOND STREET · MAYFAIR

One of the larger Assouline stores — genuinely beautiful, worth a half hour even if you leave with nothing. The books are the reason but the space earns its own visit.

04

To do & see

The museums, cinemas and cultural rooms worth building your days around.

The V&A
South Kensington · Museum

The greatest decorative arts museum in the world — fashion, furniture, textiles, ceramics, photography, architecture from every culture and every century. Free entry. Could take a week. Plan for half a day minimum and accept you will come back.

V&A East Storehouse
Stratford · Museum Archive

The new V&A collection storage and study facility in Stratford — 250,000 objects visible behind glass, the research archive open by appointment. One of the most remarkable new museum spaces in Europe.

The British Museum
Bloomsbury · Museum

The Rosetta Stone, the Elgin Marbles, the Lewis Chessmen, two million years of human history. Free entry. Go early or late to avoid the worst crowds.

Electric Cinema
Portobello Road · Cinema

The oldest working cinema in the UK. Armchairs, footstools, a waiter service for food and drinks. Watch something, anything. The experience is entirely the point.

Sir John Soane's Museum
Holborn · Museum

The home and personal collection of the architect Sir John Soane, left exactly as he arranged it at his death in 1837. The Picture Room alone is one of the great museum experiences in the world. Free entry. Book.

Somerset House
The Strand · Arts Centre

The 18th-century government building turned arts and culture venue — exhibitions, film screenings, the ice rink in winter, and the courtyard that is one of the best outdoor spaces in central London.

Worth skipping

Any restaurant within 200m of a major tourist attractionTourist prices, not London food.
The South Bank for dinnerWalk across the bridge. Eat on the other side.
Notting Hill on a market day without a planBeautiful and entirely unnavigable.
Any rooftop bar charging £25 for a gin and tonicThe view is doing all the work.
Harrods for anything other than the Food HallThe Food Hall is worth it. The rest is not.

Every recommendation, mapped.

We have pinned every hotel, restaurant, bar, and shop from this guide into a single London map. One tap and it lives in your Google Maps — ready for the trip.

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